Tuesday, August 15, 2023

Low-E Materials for Solar Water Heaters

 As part of a liquid desiccant-based A/C system, an inexpensive heat source is needed to regenerate the liquid desiccant (LD).  One of the most-common approaches, used by Tech Ingredients for their exerimental systems, is a solar water heater.  In turn their design is based on one that Desertsun02 came up with, but they have a nice addition, which is to use low-E glass instead of plain glass.  The idea is to increase the efficiency by reflecting the longwave IR that's generated by the hot interior of the water heater back toward the water tubes -- rather than escaping out of the heater.

The problem is that low-e glass isn't all that easy to come by, at least in the searching that I have done.  Most vendors are selling complete low-e window units, while the best source for the odd piece of low-e glass is a custom house.

But it turns out that you can get low-e plastic film to put on a standard window, and it's not all that expensive, either.  So far, so good:  but there are DIFFERENT types of low-e films.  The most common is a film with a thin reflective layer of aluminum, which reflects both visible and IR.  Not useful for a solar water heater.  There is a class of so-called "transparent" low-e films that are available, which might be suitable.  Looking at reviews for these films indicates that the biggest challenge is applying the film without wrinkles or bubbles.  I suspect that the biggest challenge is that the film is being applied to a window that's already installed.  In my case I can lay the "substrate" glass flat, which should make it easier to properly apply the film.

The other potential issue is that the highest-efficiency LD based system requires that the LD be heated to at least 60C to regenerate it.  The film will be exposed to this temperature (via convection on the interior of the enclosure).   How long will it hold up??  Hard to say, since my application is far different from the intended purpose.

Addendum to the DIY A/C addendum

 It's been awhile but after reading my post regarding the use of an indirect-cooled evaporative cooler that's running a pseudo M-cycle scheme, I thought it good to mention that if the incoming water is below the ambient dew point (house interior), at least SOME parts of the system will likely have water condensation on them.  Hoses, any parts of the heat exchanger that isn't getting much, if any, air flow around it, etc.

One reason for re-visiting the subject is, of course, our current heat wave.  It got to 105 yesterday, and probably will get close to that today.  The day after it will "just" get up to 100.

The current outside air is at 77F/25C and 64% relative humidity.  According to my trusty psychrometric chart the wet bulb temperature is about 20C (68F) and the dewpoint is about 17.5C(~64F).  I have observed that the current air conditions are such that the wet bulb and dewpoint temperatures remain the same, as the air heats up.  That means that the humidity ratio (water/air mass) remains the same -- everything is so dry that there's little evaporation occurring!